Best of Peru

Trip Highlights from Peru in September

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Day One: Best of Lima, Peru

My first full day in Peru was spent in the coastal city of Lima. Since we only had one day there, we had to maximize our time. We took a walking tour of the best parts of this coastal city. Some highlights included:

• Miraflores – a beautiful district full of green space and flowers.
• Paddington statue – Paddington is based on an Andean or Spectacled Bear. These are native to Peru, and so you’ll find several tributes to him in the country.
• Historic Centre of Lima – area of consisting largely of Spanish colonial architecture and the Presidential residence.
• Lima Cathedral – this third reconstruction houses many religious alters and the skull of conquistador Francisco Pizarro. Not to mention, home to black vultures that nest on its roof.

Day Two: Best of Cusco, Peru

Celebration in the square

As we flew into Cusco on a Sunday, there was a religious parade happening in the main square. We were given time to walk around and take it in, as well as enjoy lunch. I had my first real taste of Peruvian empanadas and was sold.

Cristo Blanco

Later that day, we took an open top bus up to Cristo Blanco above the city. We took in sights along the route from locals flying kites to Incan ruins like Sacsayhuamán.

Day Three: Best of the Sacred Valley, Peru

Moray

An early alarm clock brought us on our way to the site of Moray. This agricultural site lives in the Sacred Valley and was initially created by meteorites. Incan communities quickly realized that different plants grew at different depths of the crater. We learned from our guide how they implemented terraces to grow things from coca leaves to potatoes and corn. Did you know that over 3,000 types of potatoes and 300 types of corn can be grown in Peru?

Maras Salt Mines

Our next stop was to Maras, salt mines that are still in use today. En route we learned the history of these mines. Essentially, there was a point in time where the ocean covered plateaus in the region. Since much of the area is on a fault line, eventually earthquakes turned those plateaus into mountains. The water inside evaporated, leaving behind mounds of salt. Rainwater then began to wash the salt through the mountains.

When pre-Inca individuals (Maras) discovered the source, they built terraces. These terraces have shallow pools for evaporation to occur, leaving behind salt. Individuals manually stir these pools and collect and carry the salt. There are almost four thousand of these pools.

The different shades of water show different stages of collection, with brown being the newest. Once evaporation starts, there ends up being three colors of salt: white, pink, and brown. While only the white and pink salt are edible, the brown salt is often used medicinally.

We took time to walk around the area, taking in the views of the pools and surrounding mountains, before heading to our next location.

More of Cusco

We finished our afternoon and evening back in Cusco. Fun fact about Cusco: Its name was actually Qosqo, meaning bellybutton. It was named this because the nation of Tawantinsuyu (Incan empire) came from the city.

I started my afternoon with a small group learning about and painting our own toritos. These are small bull statues that typically live on top of Peruvian homes for protection.

Along the walk to paint our tortios, we came across Hatun Rumiyoq Street. This is a unique street where structure on half the street is Incan, while structure on the other half is Spanish.

Cusco Cathedral

After our painting, we took a tour of Cusco Cathedral. While photos weren’t allowed inside, we learned a lot about its history, including the art inside. Much of the art was created by Inca slaves of the Spanish. Because of this, and their forced Christianity, they often incorporated aspects of their own beliefs into their art. For example, the Virgin Mary’s dress is shaped as a triangle to represent the mountains, or apus. There is also a famous portrait of The Last Supper, but with Peruvian influence, such as having cuy as the main meal and chicha morada to drink.

Coricancha (Qorikancha): Temple of the Sun

We finished our Cusco explorations with a visit to Coricancha, the Temple of the Sun. This site is sadly less than half of what it once was. The Spanish who wrote about it said there was gold two inches thick lining the walls. The gardens spread across the river (now a road, pictured below). They contained life sized gold statues of animals, people, and more.

Following the Spanish conquest of Cusco, much of this temple was looted and dismantled. Gold statues were melted down, and stone was taken to create foundation for Santo Domingo.

That being said, our guide taught us much about the history of the site. She also showed us how Incan innovation allowed for structures that withstood the earthquakes of the region. The way that the stones were made to fit together without mortar is still visible in some areas.

Day Four: Best of a Peru Travel Day

Millma’s Camelid Sanctuary & Shop

Our fourth day was a travel day from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, where we’d stay the night before heading to Machu Picchu Town. The day started at a camelid sanctuary and alpaca clothing co-op called Millma’s. Here, we learned about and met the various camelids of Peru – vicuna, llamas, alpacas (two types), and guanaco.

This location is unique in that they’re legally allowed to care for the vicuna. The vicuna is the national animal of Peru but largely hunted by poachers due to its fibers. They are the softest of all the camelids, but they produce less than half of an alpaca’s fiber production. Because of this, their fiber is highly valuable and sought after. The vicuna on property at Millma’s is young, and came to them from a family that had protected it from poachers. Unfortunately, the baby became attached to humans and would not be safe in the wild.

In addition to housing camelids, Millma’s serves as a co-op for indigenous women weavers. Each month, weavers from different communities come to Millma’s for an opportunity to sell their products and earn a fair wage. Millma’s prides itself on paying a proper market value for fibers and goods, unlike many cheap tourist stands.

Urubamba Valley, Mercado Artesanal, & Peruvian Silver

Along the way to the ancient city of Pisac, we stopped at a lookout over the Urubamba Valley. The valley is named for the Urubamba river. Incan belief was that the river was sacred, as it mirrored the Milky Way galaxy.

We also stopped at a shop in Pisac to learn about Peruvian silver, from its origins to the common symbolism. Following the silver shop, we were given time to explore the Mercado Artesanal. This market consists of stalls of local artisans selling their wares. Regional goods include pottery, woven products, and paintings.

Ancient City of Pisac

Our final stop of the day before turning in was the Ancient City of Pisac. Here, our guide taught us about the history of the region, which actually began before the Inca civilization. When the Inca arrived, they merely improved existing architecture rather than destroy it. You can see an example of this in the ruins pictured below. They also improved existing terraces, making them suitable for agriculture.

We also learned about the largest known burial ground for the Incan empire. Pictured below, this burial site consisted of graves in the sides of a cliff. Community members would repel down the cliff to bury their lost individuals and small items to take with them into their next life. Sadly, most of these were looted long ago.

Day Five: Machu Picchu Town & Guided Tour of Machu Picchu, Circuit 3

Arrival to Machu Picchu Town

From our hotel in Urubamba, we started our journey to Machu Picchu town. We took a train from Ollantaytambo specifically geared toward Machu Picchu travelers. Pro tip: Pack light for this train, as space is limited. We each took a small soft sided bag and left our bigger luggage in storage back in Cusco since we were returning there the following day.

We arrived in Machu Picchu Town (known to some as Aguas Calientes) with some time to kill before our bus to the ruins. After dropping off our bags at the hotel, we set to exploring. A friend and I grabbed coffee and breakfast and took tome time to relax. While at breakfast, however, a protest came through the streets.

We learned that day that the protests were related to government interference over tourism to Machu Picchu. In fact, those same protests later shut down operations to and from Ollantaytambo.

Circuit 3 of Machu Picchu

Our first visit to Machu Picchu was to Circuit 3 with a local guide. This is an inner loop close to the ruins. We were taught about the history of the city and given explanations as to all the buildings still visible. Unfortunately, we learned, there is currently mass erosion at the site. This has already lead to loss of access to such areas as the Temple of the Three Windows. Our guide emphasized the importance of being ethical visitors – staying only on designated paths, not bringing in garbage, and using rubber tips if walking aids are required.

Honestly, no words can describe how it felt to finally lay eyes on this World Wonder. There is an energy and reverence throughout the grounds unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.

My best advice is to try and go twice in your trip – once with a guide to learn, and once on your own for reflection time. Our tour guide arranged our tickets for us; otherwise, know that they typically book up months in advance. There may be even more limited access in the future due to travel logistics and current erosion. If this is on your list, do your research well in advance.

This circuit wasn’t particularly challenging for me, as a whole. There were a few steep stairways, but overall it was manageable. I’d recommend it for anyone wanting an interior look, and anyone with more physical challenges.

Bonus tip: Try to learn about this site and Peru’s history ahead of your travels. While traveling, I read Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams. In fact, my guide was also reading it. I’d highly recommend it!

Day Six: Machu Picchu, Circuit 2

Our second day in Machu Picchu Town started with a trip up to Circuit 2 with the option of doing the trail to the Sun Gate. I set out on this trail with the best of intentions, but was definitely met with challenges. Between the altitude, my asthma, and an ankle awaiting surgery, I really struggled on the optional trail. Please go into this with an open mind if you are considering the attempt.

In the end, I made it about 3/4 of the way up to the gate before opting to turn back. Trip mates of mine did make it all the way. Even if you don’t get to the gate, I’d still recommend checking out the trail. It offers some solitude and unique views of the site.

Since we were on a time crunch and I was slow moving, I decided eventually to turn back and go to the main lookout point. This is the point many post pictures of. Honestly, I could have stayed there all day, even with the crowds. There’s a great view of the grounds and mountains from above. You can see the Urubamba River. It was truly one of my favorite moments of this trip, even after the struggle I had to get there.

At the end of the visit, we made our way back to the train station to go back to Ollantaytambo, and then returned to Cusco. I do wish we’d had more time in Ollantaytambo.

Day Seven: Best Underrated Hike in Peru – Palcoyo

Hiking Palcoyo was an option added to our itinerary shortly before leaving on our trip. Most have heard of Rainbow Mountain in Peru. However, did you know there’s more than one rainbow mountain?

The viral “rainbow mountain” is called Vinicunca and is located outside of Cusco. Lately, it’s been a controversial source of tourism. Communities have been affected by the virality, and not always in a positive way. It’s also often crowded and treated as a photo op.

Rather than go to Vinicunca, our group went to Palcoyo. I’ll be honest with you – it makes for a LONG day. We left our Cusco hotel at 4 am and drove over 3 hours on largely dirt roads. The altitude is high, with the trailhead sitting at 4,700 meters (15,400 feet). All of that said, it was entirely worth the effort.

These mountains have a rainbow color due to mineral deposits and consistent shifting of the tectonic plates. This creates a distinct “rainbow” on much of the mountains in the area. These colors are more or less vibrant depending on weather conditions and lighting, so keep that in mind.

This particular hike was quieter than most viral hikes in the area, especially with how early we arrived. The surrounding area is farmland, with llamas and alpacas roaming. Our group was met with and led by multiple chiribaya, or Peruvian shepherd dogs. I’d recommend the hike to anyone (and I’d also recommend bringing hiking poles!). It truly is one of the best landscapes of Peru, in my opinion.

Returning to Peru

When all is said and done, my time in Peru was far too short. The highlights throughout this article are the best experiences and places I visited in my brief visit. If I were to return, these are places I’d consider visiting again (especially Machu Picchu!).

With that in mind, there are other areas considered the best of Peru that I’d love to see upon return. Those include:

• Huacachina
• More of Lima (especially to try more food!)
• Lake Titicaca
• Arequipa
• Choquequirao
• The Amazon

Until we meet again, Peru!